Off the Beaten Path

Kathmandu is a large city that holds so much history and passion but where I am staying is dominated by western needs and wants. Each street is lined with shops that sell the same pashmina shawls and tiny metal trinkets. It's hard to fully grasp the culture and lifestyle of Nepal when so much is being hidden behind consumerism. 

Having felt overwhelmed by everything, I sought to find a peaceful place where I could sit down and reflect on where I was. So, I asked two of my friends to come with me and "get lost" in the side streets. We ended up wandering through a residential neighbourhood that led to the source of our noses' discomfort, the garbage soup river, but getting there was a journey of its own.

As we walked down the streets it was fascinating to watch how people changed the further removed we were from the tourist hub. Children, especially, were more willing to approach us and practice their English by screaming out "hello" and asking us our names rahter than asking for money. There was one little boy whom I will never forget. We climbed up to the roof of a deserted house in hopes of getting a better view. At the top I heard a faint voice yelling out to me. When I glimpsed over the edge, a boy was holding up his baby chicken and proudly proclaiming, "look, it's a cock!" I laughed so hard when he tried to make conversation by telling us about his "baby man" which was his translation for little brother. 

Later in the evening I went out to try street food. My face lit up like a stop light as the spices cleared my sinuses and burnt the inside of my mouth. I could feel the hot burning pepper saturated crepe as it slowly made its way into my stomach. Within minutes both my full 1 litre water bottles had been spared of their last drop. In search of more water and a place to ease my stomach pain, my friend and I wandered into a school yard. Every school in Nepal offers drinking water. 

Once recuperated, we asked a group of boys if it would be possible to join in their game of football (soccer). We were kindly told to wait as they discussed it between themselves and then they asked us to sit on the bench for a few minutes as they finish up their tournament. 

I excitedly ran over to the sidelines and sat down next to Adri feeling the anticipation build inside me. As time seems irrelevant, their tournament didn't finish for another half-hour. In that time, Adri and I talked about everything under the sun. He told me that he was second-boy in his class and how he wants to go to university after +2 (Grade 12 in Nepal) but doesn't know what to study yet. He also told me that he was a table-tennis master and that led to a quick intense game between the two of us. In the end I kindly accepted defeat as he bragged about his skills.

My second chance to be victorious in our rivalry came with the start of a new game of soccer. Adri took leadership of everyone and separated us into two teams. The game started with a bang. Our team scored a goal in the first two minutes. The excitement was unbearable as each team member ran around clapping and giving high-fives with their hands high in the air. My face reflected that of everyone else; a bright wide smile stretched from ear-to-ear. 

The next goal was an assist off a corner. A short while later I was tripped up by Adri's friend and they gave me a free kick that smoothly crossed over the goalkeepers head. It was a glorious game which everyone, even the other team that lost by seven points, enjoyed. By 1900 hours we said our goodbyes and my friends and I walked back to the Tibet Guest House with a group of the boys who we played football with. Each of them asked us for our Facebook and email and then finally we parted ways having to put behind us one of the most memorable moments of our trip. 

I am so glad that I had the courage and want to remove myself from the tourist filled streets of Kathmandu and create friendships that I will not soon forget.

The busy streets near the Tibet Guest House.

Spicy crepes being made by a street vendor.

Adri putting up some good competition.

A few of the boys in Grade 8 who were on the same team as me.
The boy on the right has a wicked kick.

On the Other Side of the World

When I arrived I couldn't believe my eyes. It was dark out but, that didn't seem to matter very much because the narrow streets were still bustling with cars and people who seemingly exist in what I would consider a hair-raising event.

On the first full day in Kathmandu, Nepal I visited the "Monkey Temple". True to it's name, this stupa, 500 stairs up from the street, was littered with monkeys climbing wires, stealing juice boxes and very charismatically smiling at my camera. once at the top, I witnessed a wonderful view of the Katmandu valley. No matter how awfuly dirty the streets may be (there's a garbage workers strike at the moment) the city still contains so much beauty. I've found it increasingly important to look at Nepal through a cultural lens because many things which are acceptable here seem as if they would be invasive or frowned upon in a westernized society.

The Kumari, a living embodiment of a goddess, is a young girl in Kathmandu who is taken from her family at around 5 years old and held in a palace until her first menstrual cycle. When I went to visit her window (the only place that people can see her other than festivals) I couldn't help but feel a sour ache in my heart. She seemed so helpless and bored, like a doll held prisoner. Goutan our guide, made an interesting comparison. He told me that the lotus flower is a symbol for purity and wisdom because it grows up from a very dirty place and like the Kumari it never touches the ground thus remaining pure but once that purity is broken the Kumari is no longer comparable to a goddess.

Venturing to New Heights

Tomorrow morning I will be boarding a plane at YVR airport and embarking on yet another journey. This time it's the Himalayan Mountains with my school's Social Justice 12 class. 

We will be spending a day in Hong Kong, the first week and a half in Kathmandu and then we'll catch a plane to Pokhara and trek along the Annapurna Sanctuary all the way up to the Annapurna Base Camp. It's an exiting but challenging adventure that I can't believe is already upon me. 

I've attached the itinerary below and a picture of the trek. I hope that you will check back here once or twice in the next month for a new blog post and some pictures of this amazing journey. 

Social Justice Nepal Trip 2015 - Annapurna Trek proposed itinerary - Updated Mar 3rd, 2015

(itinerary is subject to change at any time due to weather, trail conditions, health of participants.  Times, elevations are approximate; the walking day will include a stop for lunch)

Day 01:  Fri March 20 - Pokhara to Tikhedhunga (1,577 m): 1.5 h bus, 3-4 h walk

Drive from Pokhara to Birethanti; start trekking following Bhurungi Khola (river).  From there, the trail climbs steadily up the side of the valley to Hille at 1495m, then to Tikhedhunga at 1525m. This trail offers a short & relatively easy day, to adapt to the experience of trekking in Nepal.

Day 02: Sat March 21 - Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani (2,750 m): 6-7 h walk

Leaving Tikhedunga with steep climb to Ulleri village through rhododendron forest (which should be in bloom this time of the year).  Ulleri is a large Magar village at 2070m. Then the trail continues to ascend more gently, through fine forests of oak & rhododendron, towards Banthanti at 2250m, and Nangethanti at 2460m.  After an hour gentle walking from Nangethanti, we reach Ghorepani at 2775m.

Day 03: Sun March 22 - Ghorepani to Tadapani (2,590 m): 6 h walk

Hiking to Poonhill - back to Ghorepani, and trek to Tadapani.   Get up early in the morning, and go for a one hour hike to Poon Hill - superb views of the sunrise, and panoramic view of Himalayas, including Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Annapurna South, Mt. Annapurna I, Mt. Machhapuchhre, and many more.  Return to hotel for hot breakfast, and continue walking to Tadapani.

Day 04: Mon March 23 - Tadapani to Chhomrong (2210 m): 5 h walk

An easy down to Kimrung Khola for lunch, ascend again to Chhomrong village, which lies at the base of Hiunchuli (6,441m).   Offers a close view of Annapurna and Macchhapucchhre.

Day 05: Tues March 24 - Chhomrong to Himalaya Hotel (2,873 m): 7 h walk

Forward to Kuldi Ghar for about 3 hours and down to the bank of Modi river, viewing thickets of bamboo at the bottom of the gorge. Pass by the pasture of Tomo and Panchen Barah; then climb up to Himalayan Hotel for overnight stay.

Day 06: Wed March 25 - Himalayan Hotel to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (3730 m): up to 6 h walk

Keeping on west bank of Modi Khola, follow more open valley to side of Machhapuchhre Base Camp: choice of staying to rest, or continuing another two hours to Annapurna Base Camp.  Descend to to Machhapuchhre Base Camp for overnight.

Day 07: Thur March 26 – Day hike to Annapurna Base Camp (4130 m): 4 h round trip

This is usually a rest day. However, glacial moraine, mountain views and other short hikes can be indulged in.  Walk to one of the biggest glaciers ( Annapurna Glacier ) is another possibility.

Day 08: Fri March 27 - Machhapuchhre Base Camp to Bamboo (2310 m): 6 h walk

Descend and follow the same way to a pleasant camp spot at Bamboo.

Day 09: Sat March 28 - Bamboo to Himalpani (Hot Spring) and Jhinudanda (1610 m): 4 h walk

Walk up to Chhomrong and further to Himalpani to enjoy hot spring water and stay overnight on the banks of the Modi river in Jhinudanda.

Day 10:  Sun March 29 – Jhinudanda to Ghandruk - development project exploration: 4 h walk

Walk to Ghandruk town to tour various ACAP projects; overnight in Ghandruk.

Day 11: Monday March 30 - Ghandrukto Pothana (1980 m): 6 h walk

Descend to Modi river and ascend to Landruk, a beautiful Gurung village; lunch at Tolkha and easy ascent to Deurali.   Overnight at Pothana.

Day 12: Tues March 31 - Pothana to Pokhara: 1 h walk, 1 h bus

Easy way down via Dhampus village to Phedi on foot, then one - hour drive to Pokhara

Return to Pokhara hotel for shower and lunch; free afternoon/rest.  Dinner at hotel.  Overnight in Pokhara.